Local tastes: What’s cooking across the country

June 15, 2007

Here’s what restaurant critics are saying about dining in their regions:

Austin

III Forks, 111 Lavaca St., 512-474-1776; steakhouse “First, the prime beef was exquisite. In less than three months, III Forks has established itself right behind Ruth’s Chris as a top spot for steaks. The bone-in rib-eye and the New York strip were juicy, well-seasoned, tender and cooked a perfect medium-rare. The Dover sole was lovely, an indication that main-course fish gets the same attention as a steak. … The restaurant’s service aspires to be first-class. At each course, waiters deliver all the table’s plates at the same time. After the entrees, even more staffers follow with separate dishes of gravy, creamed corn, sliced tomatoes and green onions to be served individually on request. Desserts, made in-house, were appealing, including a moist, multilayer chocolate cake and a New Orleans-style bread pudding.” Entrees: $24.95-$42.95 * Dale Rice, Austin American-Statesman